The status quo and development trend of Plant Dyes

Description
Plant dyes are pigments extracted from plant flowers, grasses, trees, stems, leaves, fruits, seeds, barks, and roots as dyes. The history of the application of vegetable dyes in my country has been thousands of years, and vegetable dyes have always been the mainstream of the ancient dyeing process in my country. As far back as the Paleolithic cavemen period, people have dyed the ornamental beads with vegetable dyes. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the planting of dye plants, dye extraction and preparation technology and printing and dyeing technology were all mature.

In the 1850s, British chemists successfully synthesized aniline violet for the first time, opening a new era of synthetic dyes. Compared with vegetable dyes, synthetic dyes are widely used worldwide due to their complete chromatogram, simple process, good reproducibility, high color fastness and low cost.

However, with the improvement of the quality of life of modern people, people realize that many textiles processed with synthetic dyes have caused serious damage to human health and human living environment. Therefore, natural plant dyes have been favored by people.

Plant dyes mainly have the following advantages [3]:
① Plant dyes come from the plant world and are regenerative;
②Plant dyes are directly derived from Chinese herbal medicine, without adding any harmful chemical substances;
③The production process of plant dyes is essentially a pigment extraction process, and the residue can be used as a high-quality fertilizer after a certain treatment.

Because plant dyes are non-toxic, harmless, non-polluting, have good biodegradability, and have good compatibility with the environment. Therefore, there is Plant dyes with natural color, natural fragrance and health-care functions have unmatched advantages over synthetic dyes.

Classification of vegetable dyes
Plant dyes are very rich in resources, 4000 to 5000 species are known so far. Among them are trees and shrubs, as well as herbs and vines; wild plants and cultivated plants. Varieties and origins are different, and their pigment content is also different.

Common vegetable dyes are shown in the table
Chemical Classification of Pigments
Plant name
(Latin Name)

Dyestuff category

Hue

Dyed material part






Flavonoids
Sophora japonica Mordant dyeing yellow flower
Scutellaria Mordant dyeing yellow root
Myrica rubra Mordant dyeing yellow、Brown Tree Bark
Carthamus tinctorius Direct Dyeing Red flower
Toxicodendron succedaneum Direct Dyeing yellow leaf、stem
Tagetes erecta Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing yellow flower
Fructus Mori Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing purple、black fruit
Grape Mordant dyeing Red fruit peel
Allium cepa Mordant dyeing yellow、Red peel


Diketones
Curcuma longa Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing yellow、yellow and green root、stem
Curcuma aromatica Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing yellow、orange leaf、stem


Naphthoquinones
Impatiens balsamina Mordant dyeing、Disperse dyeing yellow flower、leaf、stem
Lithospermum erythrorhizon Mordant dyeing Purple root
Juglans Mordant dyeing Brown、Black Exocarp


Anthraquinones
Rheum rhabarbarum Mordant dyeing、Disperse dyeing yellow root、stem
Rubia cordifolia Mordant dyeing、Disperse dyeing Red、Black root、stem



Carotenoid
Gardenia jasminoides Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing yellow、Sallow fruits
Bixa orellana Direct Dyeing yellow Tree Bark
Crocus sativus Direct Dyeing yellow flower
Pterocarpus Direct Dyeing yellow Tree Bark


Indole
Indigofera tinctoria Reduction Dyeing Blue leaf、stem
Strobilanthes cusia Reduction Dyeing Blue leaf、stem
Persicaria tinctoria Reduction Dyeing Blue、green leaf、stem
Isatis tinctoria Reduction Dyeing Blue leaf、stem



Alkaloids
Phellodendron amurense Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing、Cationic dyeing yellow Tree Bark、leaf
Coptis chinensis Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing、Basic Dyeing yellow root、stem




 Polyphenols
Punica granatum Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing、Acid dyeing yellow、Brown Exocarp、root
Rhus chinensis Mordant dyeing yellow、Brown、Black lnsect parasite
Areca catechu Mordant dyeing Black Exocarp
Mesua ferrea  Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing Black、Brown Tree Bark


Pyran
Caesalpinia sappan Mordant dyeing Red、yellow、Purple、Black root、stem
Camellia Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing Brown leaf
Ginkgo biloba Direct Dyeing、Mordant dyeing yellow、Brown leaf

1.1 Classified by color

Plant dyes can be divided into colors
1) Purple series, comfrey, purple plant, wild amaranth, bakra, etc.;

2) Red line, madder, safflower, hematoxylin, etc.;

 3) Yellow series, gardenia, sophora turmeric, turmeric, ginkgo, chrysanthemum, etc.;

 4) Green series, buckthorn, amaranth, etc.;

 5) Tawny and brown color, tea, mulberry, bayberry, oak, autumn leaves, etc.;

 6) Blue series, wilt blue, soft blue, wood blue, horse blue, etc.;

7) Gray and black series, water chestnut, gallnut, sylvestris, koshu, sage leaf and lacquer aunt, etc.

1.2 Classification by dyeing method

According to the dyeing method, vegetable dyes can be divided into:

Direct dyes: turmeric, safflower, pomegranate, etc.;

Vat dyes: lake blue, horse blue, private blue, etc.;

Mordant dyes: madder, comfrey, hematoxylin, pomegranate peel, etc.;

Disperse dyes: henna, madder, rhubarb, etc.;

Acid dyes: saffron, Sophora japonica, turmeric, pomegranate, etc.;

Basic dyes: Cork, Huanglian, etc. 


1.3 Classification by chemical composition
 According to their chemical composition, plant dyes can be divided into carotenoids, shallots, vegetarians, flavonoids, diketones, noises, alkaloids, etc. 

 Carotenoid dyes are mainly yellow, orange, and red, which are widely distributed in nature, such as carrots and crocetin which contain such pigments. The onion dye pigments are yellow-red and are found in the roots of plants and animals, such as rhubarb, madder, shellac, and cochineal. Its structure contains onion ligand and a certain number of hydroxyl or carboxyl groups. It is characterized by high light fastness and strong ability to form metal complexes. Scallion brewing dyes are mainly purple, Exist in comfrey roots. Flavonoid dyes are mainly yellow and red hues, which are found in bayberry, luting, Scutellaria, and safflower. The two main natural dyes with a lake-like structure are Brilliant Blue and Tyre Red Violet. Cynanchum is in the form of glycosides in plants. It is generally extracted from Luolan. The basal leaves of this plant are soaked in water, and then fermented, hydrolyzed, and oxidized to Indigo

1.4 Classification according to daily use
Most plant dyes are commonly used Chinese herbal medicines or plants with edible and highly ornamental value, and some plants are good economic crops. Plant dyes can be classified according to the use of plants, as shown in Table 2 .
Table 2 Classification of vegetable dyes according to daily use
Classification Plant dye
Edible plants Tea, Sophora japonica, onion, chestnut, water chestnut, etc.
Medicinal plants Daqingye, turmeric, rhubarb, madder and coptis
Ornamental plants Marigold, Albizia, Acacia, Lotus, Pomegranate
Economical plant Longan, mango, lychee, date, betel palm and peach
Wild plants Wormwood, all grass, blue grass and coconut palm

2 Research status of Plant dyes
 People are paying more and more attention to the environmental protection of plant dyes. Plant dyes are being re-emphasized. Domestic researchers are increasing. Recently, domestic and foreign companies have used this research in textiles, medicine, food, cosmetics, etc.

2.1 Application in textiles
Most plant dyes can not only dye protein fibers (wool and silk, etc.) and cellulose fibers (cotton fiber, hemp fiber and viscose fiber), but a few plant dyes can also be used for chemical fibers (polyester, nylon and rayon). Dyeing. Lithospermum, rhubarb, turmeric, walnut and onion and other vegetable dyes with small molecular weight and hydrophobicity can dye polyester fibers, the mechanism is similar to disperse dyes; the small wall alkali contained in yellow firewood is currently known plants The only cationic dye among the dyes,It can be used to dye acrylic fiber; comfrey, walnut, annatto, etc. are all suitable for dyeing polyamide fiber.
Japan's Kooritsu Co., Ltd. has developed batches of vegetable dyes in three color systems: brown, green, and blue. Daiwa Dyeing Company launched "Straw Clothes Dyeing", and Shape Dyeing Company launched "Swivel Blue Printing". Japanese textiles dyed with all-natural dyes include "Nishijin-ori", "Kyoyuzen", "Oshima Silk" and other brands. This series of "Plant dyed" textiles are used as fabrics for shirts and pajamas, or for bed sheets. , Quilt and other home textile products. Allegro Natural Dyestuff Company of the United States can provide more than 100 kinds of all natural dyes for cotton.In recent years, my country is actively exploring the application of natural dyes: The Chinese Academy of Sciences has produced natural yellow (TR-Y) and natural green (TR-G) for cotton and silk dyeing; "Bronze Bull Brand" series Children's clothing is dyed with pure natural plant dyes; Jiangsu Sanmao Group has also used plant dyes to prepare high-count Tiansuli environmentally friendly high-end fabrics, with good results.

The dark red silk and longevity embroidered robes unearthed from the Mawangdui No. 1 Han Tomb in Changsha were dyed with madder in natural dyes. Although buried in the ground for more than 2,000 years, its color is still bright. At present, decorative products dyed with natural dyes are especially popular and loved in Europe and America. Combining natural dye dyeing with traditional tie-dyeing and batik art in my country will greatly improve the quality of the product. People in Weishan Yi and Hui Autonomous County of Yunnan use natural dyes to make tie-dye products.They dye the tied patterns with plant dyes collected from the mountains. The patterns are fresh and unique, simple and natural, and the fabrics can be sewn into various decorative items such as tables, chair cushions, curtains and so on. These tie-dyed products with natural dyes are deeply loved and welcomed by domestic and foreign merchants. The export rate of the products is over 90%, and they have entered the Japanese market and become inspection-free products.

Japan uses mugwort dyed fabrics to process pajamas for patients suffering from atopic dermatitis. In addition, studies have shown that cotton and silk dyed with rhubarb have good UV resistance (both UVA and UVB transmittances are below 2%). The cotton fabric dyed with madder and sky blue also has good UV resistance.


2.2 Application in medicine
Plant dyes are natural environmental protection products, most of which are Chinese herbal medicines. The functions of some commonly used plant dyes in medical and health care are listed as follows:
"Compendium of Materia Medica" said that Gardenia" treats vomiting, bleeding, dysentery, dysentery, hemorrhage, injury and blood stasis, and typhoid overwork, fever, headache, hernia, decoction and fire prevention" various symptoms. Traditional Chinese medicine uses gardenia to treat typhoid fever. , Jaundice, mouth sores, red eyes, erysipelas and other diseases. Modern medical pharmacology believes that gardenia has the effects of biliary, sedative, antihypertensive, anti-fungal, and accelerated tissue healing. It is clinically used to treat acute jaundice hepatitis, sprains and upper gastrointestinal bleeding.
Mulberry leaves have antispasmodic, anti-pathogenic microorganisms, lowering blood sugar, lowering blood lipids, and diuresis. At the same time, it has a certain inhibitory effect on Staphylococcus aureus, beta-hemolytic streptococcus, diphtheria bacillus and Escherichia coli. In addition, it can also kill Leptospira.
Curcumin can scavenge free radicals, have anti-skin fungi, anti-virus and anti-cancer effects, and can be used to treat infectious hepatitis, gallstones and skin diseases. Tomato red pigment has antioxidant properties, and its antioxidant properties are the strongest among carotenoids. Its ability to remove linear oxygen is 100 times that of the currently commonly used antioxidant vitamin E, so it is called an effective biological carotenoid single line Oxygen scavenger; tests have proved that lycopene has the effect of preventing and inhibiting malignant tumors;Enhance the body's immune function, can improve the body's immunity; reduce blood lipids and anti-atherosclerosis, it can inhibit cell oxidation and modification of low-density lipoproteins; lycopene can prevent the skin from being damaged by ultraviolet rays, protect the skin, and delay aging.
Sumu has the effects of promoting blood circulation, breaking blood stasis, reducing swelling and relieving pain. Medical research has proved that hematoxylin can increase cardiovascular contraction, have hypnotic and anesthetic effects on the central nervous system, and has a broad-spectrum antibacterial effect. It has a significant killing effect on respiratory and intestinal bacteria.
The root of blue grass (Banlangen) can be used as medicine and has the functions of clearing heat and detoxification. Lan Liang extracted from blue grass also has the effects of clearing heat, detoxifying and anti-inflammatory, and is the main ingredient of Chinese medicine Qingdai.
Comfrey has a variety of pharmacological effects such as antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, and anti-tumor. It is clinically used to treat chronic hepatitis, tuberculosis, thrombocytopenic purpura, skin cancer, dermatitis, eczema, etc., with remarkable curative effects.
Safflower can promote blood circulation, remove blood stasis and relieve pain. Sophora japonica has the effects of stopping bleeding, relieving pain, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. Wormwood can dispel cold and relieve pain. In addition to frequent rewashing, it is also a raw material for moxibustion. Galla Chinensis has astringent and damp-drying effects in medicine. Tea has the effects of clearing away heat and reducing fire, digestion and refreshing.

2.3 Application in food
Humans have been ingesting pigments from some fruits and vegetables for a long time. The emergence of synthetic pigments once replaced natural pigments. However, because synthetic pigments have brought harm to the environment and human health that cannot be ignored, the shortage of food pigments has prompted people to pay attention. Transferred to natural pigments, various natural pigments extracted from nature can be used as pigment additives in food and beverages. my country has a vast territory, diverse topography and climate, and abundant plant species resources. It has abundant plant resources for the production of various edible sky pigments.
Red radish pigment is a natural food coloring extracted from red radish, a cruciferous plant. The main ingredient is anthocyanins containing celestine. The pure product is dark red powder, easily soluble in water and ethanol aqueous solution, but insoluble in oil and absolute ethanol. Its hue and stability are greatly affected by pH: stable orange-red when it is acidic; blue when it is neutral; and unstable green when it is alkaline. The pigment is suitable for coloring or complementary coloring of wine, carbonated drinks, fruit juice, jam, candy and other products.
Pharyngeal orange and annatto orange are important varieties of natural edible pigments in the West. They have already passed the evaluation of FAO/WHO JECFA, and have entered the laws and regulations that allow food additives to be used in 167 countries in the world, and have a large international market. . In 1997, the Ministry of Health of our country approved to enter GB2760-1996, so our country has already started to use these two kinds of natural pigments.


3 The development trend of Plant dyes
Plant dyes can not only be used in textiles, medicine, food, but also have broad application prospects in many fields such as solar cells, cosmetics, paper, plastics, and building materials.

3.1 Application of vegetable dyes in cosmetics
Plant polyphenols are a large class of complex polyphenol compounds that are widely found in plants. In a narrow sense, it can be considered that plant polyphenols refer to tannins or kneads, and their relative molecular mass is between 500 and 3000. Broadly speaking, it also includes small-molecule phenolic compounds, such as natural phenols such as anthocyanins, catechins, tonin, gallic acid, arbutin and arbutin. In the current daily chemical field, people pay more attention to the use of the latter.
Plant polyphenols have unique chemical and physiological activities and can play multiple roles in skin care products. For example, anti-oxidation, anti-aging, anti-ultraviolet, whitening and moisturizing, etc., which have unique effects on skin aging (wrinkles and pigmentation) caused by various factors. People have been getting polyphenols used in cosmetics from some special kinds of plants, such as extracting Nengguoyin from Nengguo leaves, extracting rutin from Sophora japonica, and extracting flavonoids from Ginkgo biloba leaves.


4 Conclusion
Plant dyes are favored by people because of their natural hue, soft tones, non-allergic, carcinogenic, and health-care functions. At present, although plant dyes cannot replace synthetic dyes, as people pay more and more attention to plant dyes, they will surely have broad development prospects in the fields of textiles, medicine, food, and batteries.